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Downtown diners rival their suburban counterparts
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Diners dot highways and are scattered throughout the suburbs, but their urban counterparts prove a rarer breed, especially in New York City. Here, to warrant true diner designation, an establishment must clearly differentiate itself from countless corner coffee shops and delis with table service. But just what makes a diner a diner? Is it the Formica counters? The booths? Throw in a neon sign, table-top jukeboxes, a stainless-steel exterior, and menus with endless plastic-covered pages peppered with words like schmear, gyro, and extra-thick shake -- then maybe we're on to something.
The origin of the diner dates back to the early 1900s, when railroad dining cars were sold and turned into roadside restaurants. The earliest diners had tables and stools only; booths were added later as the eateries evolved from blue-collar hangouts to family restaurants. Traditionalists would go so far as to argue that a real diner must have a specific architectural arrangement and be prefabricated in a factory by manufacturers such as J.G. Brill, Kullman, Silk City, and Swingle.
Though they may not all meet everyone's every requirement, we think the following four downtown spots serve up a diner experience as close to the real thing as the 'burbs can provide. Not coincidentally, they've all got "diner" in their names.
The Square Diner
This classic railway diner boasts the perfect combination of counter seating and comfy booths, and a manufacturer's tag confirms that it's a Kullman original. The Square Diner's motto -- "Serving Tribeca over 30 years" -- doesn't really do it justice. In fact, the establishment has been a neighborhood fixture for more than 90 years.
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| Grab a seat at the Square Diner's counter |
Last year, Ted Karounos bought the business from his father-in-law, John Siderakis, who ran it for 32 years and can still be found among the diner's diners. The grub - oversized burgers, crisp fries, and big Greek salads -- is priced as if you're dining roadside in an earlier decade. Siderakis can keep the food fares reasonable because there's no monthly rent to pay - he purchased the lot back in 1971.
A native of Greece, Siderakis has added his own family recipes to the menu, dubbing them "Delights from the Greek Isle." One such entrée is moussaka, an herby mix of meat and eggplant with a cheesy pudding top that the Siderakises have enjoyed for generations.
33 Leonard Street at West Broadway, (212) 925-7188
Moondance Diner
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| A movie star, the Moodance Diner also has great grub |
A little silver box with a glittery sign, the Moondance is one of Manhattan's oldest diners. A former railroad dining car, this Formica palace looks just like a weathered Airstream trailer on the inside, too. Over the years, the spot has become an artists' hangout and appeared in a range of films, including "Spider-man" and "Igby Goes Down." Jonathan Larson, who wrote "Rent," paid his dues by working here for nearly 10 years. On the menu, when you see the listing for oven-roasted turkey served with chunky mashed potatoes, gravy, and cranberry sauce, read H-O-M-E C-O-O-K-I-N-G. The big fat burger, to be sure, comes with a pile of golden crisscross fries, and the extra-thick shake -- vanilla, chocolate, or strawberry -- lives up to its name, promising to clog your straw if not your arteries. A rival to its surburban brethren, the Moondance Diner is open round the clock on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. During the rest of the week, the diner is open from 7 a.m. to midnight and can also be rented out for parties.
80 Sixth Ave at Grand Street, (212) 226-1191
Pearl Street Diner
For 55 years, this establishment has been serving eggs around the clock, cheeseburger supremes with fries, and chicken souvlaki -- along with pages of other entrée choices -- to hungry residents, employees, and visitors in the Financial District. In contrast to the hectic downtown streets that surround it, the diner's quaint atmosphere helps people feel at ease, as does the comfort foo d. "It's a nice getaway from the office," owner Jimmy Couliandis says. "You can loosen your tie here."
"Some new people come in here and say, 'What's this doing here?'" he says about his family's diner, which, especially from the outside, looks like it belongs in the suburbs. That said, though dwarfed by neighboring tall buildings, the one-story Pearl Street Diner is anything but out of place.
212 Pearl Street, (212) 344-6620
Vandam Diner
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| Patrons head to Vandam for the perfect BBQ burger |
Patrons like Jenny Fiorella praise Vandam Diner for its consistently excellent food. "The charcoal-broiled burgers taste like the perfect BBQ burger," she says. "The fries and onion rings are perfectly crispy and tasty. And the desserts are better than most moms'." The friendly in-house staff keeps customers coming back, and quick and free delivery service is also available, seven days a week. A blue awning replaces the more traditional stainless-steel exterior, but diner diehards shouldn't fret: The neon sign can be found inside. Although there's no counter space, booths are plentiful, giving patrons an opportunity to stare out at Soho through oversized windows while indulging in a chili cheeseburger deluxe followed by a slice of banana cream pie. And for the dieters, there are low-cal options as well, like salmon salad with a bowl of Jello for dessert.
12 Vandam Street, (212) 647-1111
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